Isla Mujeres, Lazy

Our days are mostly spent laying around like iguanas. Exercise is adjusting my beach towel without getting off of it. I don’t know if floating on my back is considered exercise? But we do often walk in the water, slowly, among the anchored yachts. Does eating fish tacos while sitting on a bar swing count? But, honestly we’ve been working out every morning before it gets too hot… speed walking, swimming back and forth in the ocean, and yoga.

The beach merchants are quite interesting and polite. They sell sarongs, jewelry, hats, baskets, tattoos (Izzy and I got henna tattoos), cigars, popsicles, t-shirts, their first born child, anything you want. The shops in town vary. I’ve put the staff into three categories: jerks, smart alecks, and nice. The jerks start really-really nice and get pissed if you say you need to need to think about it. I do not go back to those places, even if their price is the lowest. The smart alecks are usually the younger ones and they like to lie through their teeth to see how much you’ll believe. They also like to say in Spanish that it’s free if you speak Spanish… this is my personal favorite. It’s all meant to be fun, and if you call them on their fibs (like saying they are from China or Canada) they laugh and give you even better deals. The nice ones are nice. Here’s your guide to getting the best prices: 1) after getting your quote ask, “Es lo Menos?” – “Is that the lowest price?” 2) just finger your item and look wishful… say you need to think about it… say you can’t afford it… the price will drop to less than half 90% of the time. 3) Simply say it’s too expensive.

There are two types of streets here; the main pedestrian street where you can’t walk twenty feet without a salesman trying to engage your interest, and all the other streets. Just one street over is quiet and more shaded. Night time is fun to go down main street to see all the activity and street performers. Otherwise go to the side streets.

It turns out Izzy and I share a weird passion. We like cemeteries. The cemetery at north end is fascinating. We found some graves dating back to the 1800s. Lots of them are little tiny ones with babies adorned with stuffed animals. I love the ones with the angel statues with their finger to their lips asking for respectful silence as the world noisily bustles outside the walls. Iguanas stare languidly at you as you cruise around the tombs.

Yesterday was Election Day. All of the stores had the alcohol displays covered with blankets. The bars were forbidden to sell alcohol at the bar. The only way to get a glass of wine or a beer was to eat at a table… you couldn’t even sit at a table to order alcohol without ordering food. It’s against the law on Election Day. Apparently they think people vote more reasonably if they’re sober. I like it. It is a sober decision.

I’ve picked up three quotes here that I like: “Happiness is when what you think, what you say, and what you do are in harmony.” Gandhi. “Great things never came from comfort zones.” Mogagua Café. “Be calm, you’re on the fun side of the wall.” T-shirt. There’re a lot of shirts with sayings I won’t be repeating here.

We have eaten at so many different restaurants, I don’t know where to begin… so I won’t. Come here yourself and eat. There’s not a bad place, including the street vendors. Just try everything. That being said we had a couple of repeat places; Dopi’s with its grass-fed organic beef. The Filet Mignon was delish. Muelle Siete is excellent and gorgeous. We went back there for our thirtieth anniversary. I think they make very good Mole Negro. We told the waiter it was our anniversary, so he surprised us with a slice of chocolate cake. After we left we went to Lola Valentino’s for a glass of wine (Great selection of wine) and the server brought us another huge slice of chocolate cake! Ooff… too much sugar for me, but Joe and Izzy chowed down… well, so did I but it was too much. The best meal was at Casa del Tikinxic (Tick-en-shick) on the south side of the island at Playa Lanchero. Get a taxi, or rent a golf cart and bring your swimsuit. Tikinxic is the indigenous plate for Isla Mujeres. It’s a kilo of fish prepared with a specialty rub and cooked in an open kiln. It is delicious and feeds three-four people.

We went to the South Point Park. This is a must for anyone who can walk an easy paved trail and steps. The trail wraps around the end of the island within feet of the water. They have a cool walk-through tunnel of sorts that looks out over both sides of the island… great photo op! This area is famous for being the furthermost eastern part of Mexico. They have a little amphitheater here to be the first person in Mexico to watch the sun rise. 

I chose this place to spread Aunt Judy’s and Leo’s ashes. I think they both would have loved it here.

Last night we walked out to our favorite bar (because it’s on the windy side and in the shade), The Tiny Gecko. The band talked Izzy into getting up on stage and shaking the maracas and singing one word, “Man.” It’s amazing what she’s willing to do. For someone who is labeled as shy, she sure is daring.

Well goodbye for now. We leave tomorrow. I’ll finish the last blog on the plane about hotel choices for Isla Mujeres. So expect one more post about mid-week.